frankb Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 I currently play with Fender Bullet 9's and Ernie Ball super slinky 9's, but after playing my buddies guitar, who has 10's yesterday I really liked the feel of them and am thinking about jumping up a gauge. My question is that I know if you switch gauges, the different tensions will sometimes throw off the set-up of the guitar and I was just wondering if I did switch, how big are the effects and what type of stuff would I have to look for and try to fix? Also any recommendations on some 10 gauge strings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Poobah Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 The heavier gauge will put more strain on the neck and could cause it to bow forward. If so, a simple truss rod adjustment should do the trick. If your guitar has a tremolo you will likely need to adjust the spring tension, as well. Wouldn't be a bad idea to check the intonation while you're at it, either. As for string brand, that's a very personal decision. I'd try a bunch of different brands over the next few months and make my mind up from there. Personally, I use GHS Boomers on everything except my Les Paul, which sounds a lot better with Slinkys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BonzoLikeDrumer Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Going from 9's to 10's shouldn't be any difference at all as long as you have 3 or 4 spring's holding the bridge. Now if you go to a set of 11's or even 13's, you will need 5 spring's to hold the extra pressure on the bridge and as well as a neck set as Grand Poobah said. They will last longer but it's hell on the guitar itself, I've ruined a few guitar's (a Fender Squire and a Samick) by using 13's and the heavy John Pearse's (on my Takamine 330GS) will put a quick end to a cheap acoustic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evster2012 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I currently play with Fender Bullet 9's and Ernie Ball super slinky 9's, but after playing my buddies guitar, who has 10's yesterday I really liked the feel of them and am thinking about jumping up a gauge. My question is that I know if you switch gauges, the different tensions will sometimes throw off the set-up of the guitar and I was just wondering if I did switch, how big are the effects and what type of stuff would I have to look for and try to fix? Also any recommendations on some 10 gauge strings? Does your guitar have the same scale as your friends? For example, a Fender Strat has a 25.5 inch scale. A Les Paul has a 24.75 inch scale. Believe it or not, this will result in different relative string tensions. Regardless, the switch from 9s to 10s is minor and shouldn't require a truss rod adjustment. You might need to adjust the intonation, but that's simple enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danelectro Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Since he's using Bullets it's same to assume it's a Strat, can't imagine those being a good choice for anything else with the giant bullet shaped ball end designed to fit snug in a trem block. Going from 9's to 10's shouldn't require a truss adjustment. I doubt he'll need to add a spring but he may have to tighten the spring claw to bring the bridge down a bit if the additonal string tension pulls it up. I suppose it depends how the Strat is set up. Keep in mind Strat's are finicky, even changing from one brand of strings to another or pulling all the strings off for a change can alter the current set up if you have the bridge set to float. Fender has some set up guidelines for Strat's on their site, I'd read that if I was you. I'm with Ev on making an apples to apples comparison about what you intend to accomplish with a string gauge change. If your friends guitar was anything but a Strat putting 10's on your guitar likely won't achieve the same feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankb Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Well the 10's were on an Epiphone LP, which I currently have the super slinky's on my Epi LP. I like the super slinky's, but the feel of the 10's I did like a bit more, as I liked the little extra resistance to them. The truss rod adjustment and things of the sort were what I was most worried about, as I didn't want to bow my neck and have never done any adjustments before. If its only the intonation, I might just make the switch and go with it (I wasn't sure but aren't LP stock strings 10's anyways)? Also, I forgot about the shorter neck length on the LP..ha just figured better to be safe than sorry. Also yes, I use the bullets on a MIM strat, and I guess with the spring, it might make a bit more work to get it to work right. Also you guys are probably right that I might not like them on the strat, as the 9's do have a bit more pull on them, so maybe I'll just experiment and see what works and check out the fender site and maybe decide on that later. I guess I should've specified more at the beginning, but thanks for the help guys. Also, any good sites that you guys know of that explain adjusting springs, truss rods, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evster2012 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 When you have a floating trem, the string tension determines the angle of the bridge. Bend a string and you'll see the bridge rise, assuming you don't have it tightened down onto the guitar's surface. The claw is what the springs attach to in the cavity on the back of the guitar. Increasing string gauge can require a couple of turns of the two screws that mount the calw to the guitar to compensate. Adjusting intonation is tightening/loosening the screw at the back of the string saddles, moving the point where the string sits in the saddles relative to the distance between the saddle and the nut. The simplest way is to use a tuner, pluck the 12th fret harmonic and tune the string till it's in tune. Then fret the string and see if it's flat or sharp. Adjust the saddle until they match both with the harmonic and fretted. That's the basic way, however string to string adjustments may be required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danelectro Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 One thing you could do is "eyeball" what the bridge on your Strat looks like. Fender spec is to be set to float about an 1/8" over the body of the guitar. If you change string gauge and tighten or loosen the claw to get the bridge back where it was before the change it's a rough way of getting it close. More often than not, especially on Strat's bought at places like Guitar Center the set up is whacked anyway. Chances are the bridge is pulled against the body and the intonation is slightly off so you should be able to get close just by getting back to where you started. Most of the guys that work at big retail outlets can't set up a Strat for jack. The proof is all the whacked Strat's hanging on the walls. Playing Strat's at the store can be painful . Keep in mind the worse that can happen is you'll have to experiment and tweak to get it right. We all started that way and the sooner you learn that stuff the better off you'll be. When I buy a new guitar, and it doesn't matter if it's a $300 guitar or a $3000 guitar, I tear it apart and set it up the way I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evster2012 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Danelectro and I certainly share an approach to guitar maintenance! Lesson is: Learn the ins and outs of your instrument! Know how to tear it down, clean every piece and totally reassemble it better than it was! Cheers Dano! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danelectro Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Cheers Dano! Cheers Evster. I could really use that beer right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankb Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 I also like the way you guys think...I was contemplating taking them in to get set up after I changed the strings just because I never have never had them set-up, but I figured in the long haul its better to learn and do it myself. Kind've like an oil change...something simple that takes a little time to learn, but in the end will save you some bucks and time by doing it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evster2012 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 I also like the way you guys think...I was contemplating taking them in to get set up after I changed the strings just because I never have never had them set-up, but I figured in the long haul its better to learn and do it myself. Kind've like an oil change...something simple that takes a little time to learn, but in the end will save you some bucks and time by doing it yourself. Anytime you want to tackle something like this, just ask. I'm sure we'd be more than happy to go into deeper detail when you're ready to be walked through it step by step! Just don't go filing your nut slots to reduce binding without consultation! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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